Meet the Musher: Paul

Meet Paul.  Paul lives on Long Island with his dogs, Summer and Tucker.   Paul is the owner of PAWESOMEDOGS.COM.  He volunteers with two rescue groups "Siberian Husky Assistance and Rescue Program of NY" and "Pets for Vets" as their trainer on Long Island.

 

What dog powered sports have you been involved with?

 Dry land mushing, I started Mt.Board-joring in 1992 with my then Malamute Boru, he loved it we'd go everywhere and created smiles too, the simple connection gets me lost in watching his movements in front of me, back then I was alone in doing this and still I get frowned upon by old school mushers, but once they see it and try it they change their perception, I actually compete in Bike-joring classes when I can get to sanctioned races and introduce people to running their Dog, as a trainer with the Springer System, Kjell is a great man.

How did you first get started in the sport? 

Through my love of Northern breeds and even as a kid I'd attach my Dog to my BMX bike and have him pull me, I went on instinct, then learned form more experienced real Mushers about how to call out for turns. 

When did you know you were hooked on the sport? 

Well it started when I was around ten years old, so 30 years ago and I've never been on a sled, so go figure.

What is mushing like in your neck of the woods?

I'm all alone, I hear about others, but I'm pretty sure they just see me and think there are more of us.

I do my best to promote it, and got some people into cani-cross, but I run on seriously twisty Mt. Bike trails so even experienced mushers might be intimidated by where I run my dogs.

What is your favorite activity to do with your dogs?

Kayacking, Summer does water rescue, it came natural to her, but I love that it proves BSL is BS. Then bike-joring and Mt.Board-joring. and hiking. I Love Hip-belts.

What other kinds of training have you done with your dogs? 

Well I'm a Dog trainer so opening doors, is pretty cool, some tricks, but I just focus on Dogs that can go anywhere and do anything, I'm pretty sure I could take a class 2 / 3 river with Summer in my Kayak and sky dive with her, it's all about love and trust.

Tell us about your current dogs. 

Summer comes from an amazing breeder, Tucker was a rescue that was locked in a basement for 16+hours, never abused, but severely neglected, he now helps me train unruly puppies.

Tell us a little about your relationship with your dogs.

They are amazing Zen like Dogs, they teach me.

What characteristics do you look for in a new dog? 

Their history, to quote Dr, Ian Dunbar socialization happens between 4 & 12 weeks of age and if those Dogs are introduced to a 100 people they Will be better Dogs for it, beyond that good legs and willingness, I never force a Dog to do anything, I may motivate them, but it's about Love and Dogs want to please us.

What is your favourite piece of gear? Why is it your favourite? 

A good harness that fits properly, good equipment is key and I also love RuffWear packs, but I get my Harnesses from Amy Dugan at Mountain Ridge, because that are handmade and I believe in all that Cape Town Carts does, people that Love Dogs and creative amazing products out of Love, not money get my undying  support. 

Describe a perfect run with your dogs. 

One where I lose focus on the trail and get caught up in the beauty of their movement, it's magical.

What is the best advice you have ever been given for mushing? 

Good equipment is essential, and so are the basic commands, my Dogs knowing “Stop” has saved me from serious injury.

What resources have you used to further your training? Not many besides some real mushers teaching me the tried and true commands, Haw, Gee, Whoa, Stop, Line out, Hike, Lets Go.  

Know the basics don't create your own commands so others can run your Dogs if needed, I've even worked Haw & Gee into pets Dogs for walking.

Why do you run your dogs? 

For the Bonding , for the thrill, for the Love we share doing it.

Click here to see Paul in action with his dogs!

Dogs Need Jobs

Your Dog Needs A Job

A study of more than 100,000 Americans found that those who are not in the workforce are the most likely to be depressed. The student was conducted by  Gallup-Healthways Well-Being Index. It says 16.6% of unemployed Americans are depressed compared to 5.6% of those who work full time. 

 

Simple.  If you have a job to do, you feel better that if you do not have a job to do.   Being employed leads to a sense of self worth, purpose, and feeling wanted.   A job is also an opportunity meet some of our social, creative and work needs.  We feel happy with a job well done, and proud of our accomplishments. 

 

 

Your dog is no different.  A dog with a job, is a happy dog! 

 

 

Dogs With Jobs

 

 

Modern dogs have been selectively bred for generations for purposes that the majority of them never get to fulfil.   A terrier is hard wired to seek and destroy, a herding dog has a brain for running and rounding up stock.  Retrievers would love nothing more than to swim and chase down winged waterfowl.    Our modern lives have mostly eliminated the need for our dogs to perform such tasks.   Yet generations of their ancestors have contributed to genes that tell them they must!  Leaving many of our modern dogs frustrated!

 

This leaves many dogs seeking other outlets, such as digging, barking or eating your house.  A dog needs a job, and it can be the job you gave him, or one he finds on his own.

Happy Dog! Happy People!  Secret Weapon, Belle, Old School and River-dog work hard and play hard!

 

Job Options

 

The list of dog jobs is endless.   You can look for organised and formal classes or competitions like Rally, Skijoring ,Agility, Flyball and Herding classes for you and your pup to enjoy.   Talk to the people at your local pet store, rescue groups or your veterinarian.  The sports are out there, and likely have a dedicated follower or two in your area.  

 

A few dogs have the proper temperaments to work with seniors or people with special needs as therapy dogs.  Watch your dog for signs of stress and burn out caused by these activates, but know that volunteering your dog and yourself will be a life changing and rewarding experience.

 

Taking a Class

 

Before taking a class, do your homework.  Find out how long the instructor has been working in the sport.  There are many passionate people in the world of dog sports, but some may not be experienced to offer you the support and safety you and your dog need to grow and move forward.  Look for an instructor who knows how to talk to people, you will come home feeling more successful, and be more likely to ask them questions.    Just because someone is good at training dogs, doesn't mean they have the skills to train people.

 

Less Formal Options

 

You can also do less formal activites like carrying a backpack on hikes, or to the grocery store.   You can train your dog for jobs around the house, just be creative.  Perhaps you teach your dog to lay down and stay while you garden, or bring you his toys by name.  You can instill these simple tasks with a sense of meaning, that will make your dog beam, and be PROUD!  

Dog Park = Party Bar!

Going to the dog park is not a job for a dog, but many people use it as an outlet for their dogs energy.   I equate going to the dog park, kinda like going out to a club.  It's busy, loud and some of us enjoy it!  For other's it's too busy and too loud.   A dog park is a non-stop party, where the majority of dogs are also highly aroused and hyper.  There can be issues with bullying, between the dogs, and the people too!  

If your aim is to have a well behaved dog, with a sense of purpose and pride, a dog park is not the place to accomplish this. 

Giving your dog a skill or a task to learn, and they will work their mind and body, and be satisfied for having done so. 

Oxford Dogs at Work

Here are some of the things that the Oxford Dogs enjoy....




Riv enjoying a tunnel at agility @ Crazy Jumpers Dog School

We use agility training to build our dog's confidence, and the dog's confidence in themselves and with us as well!  Agility gets us some exercise as well! 

 

In the Yukon, the dogs carry gear and food for us.

We love our hiking packs, these are made by Ruff Wear.  They are water proof, and hold a lot of gear! I like the dogs to carry their own food and poop in, and we tuck in anything extra as well.  We have used our dog packs from everything from panning for gold to walking home from the grocery store.  The dogs enjoy being useful, and with a bit of a heavier load, it's easier to keep up with them on longer journeys.   The dogs are always proud to carry something, and we offer them lots of praise for a job well done.  

 It seems there is always something new to learn as we grow in the sport.   Start  Any dog powered sport is a team sport, you and your dog are a team, unlike any other canine sport, you are both responsible for moving yourselves.   It s a beautiful bonding experience and the thrill of a lifetime! Dog power is a passion at our house, and the dogs go NUTS when they see we are loading the truck for an outing.  

  Our dogs love to play Frisbee and enjoy the challenge and excitement!  It's a great way to work one on one with each dog, and to really bond and build up some excitement.   We use doggie safe discs, which are made of a shatter proof plastic.  If the dogs bit too hard, it punctures the disc, but the plastic is still soft enough not to cut their mouths.     Disc is a great activity for when it's too hot to scooter. 




 

Our dogs attend training classes through out their lives.  The change to train around new dogs, new distractions and learn new skills is so rewarding.  Training classes aren't very expensive, and they are so worth it for keeping everyone's skills sharp. 

 

 

What work does your dog do?   What do your and your dog do that is meaningful?  What is your dog's job? Comments welcome.

 

 

 

H-2-0

Water!

Your dogs are working hard out there on the trail.  Winter, Summer, Spring or Fall, your dog needs water, and you need to provide it to him.

During the times of the year when the waterways are still open and not covered with ice, if you provide your dog with enough to drink, it will limit, or eliminate their need to drink from possibly contaminated water sources. 

Soaked Kibble

Drop a piece of your dog's kibble in a bowl of water, and see what happens.  It will generally swell up as it absorbs water.  This is what happens in your dog's body after a meal, the dog needs more moisture to process the food.  So if you are feeding your dog kibble, be sure to soak food you offer them before your planned runs. This is a great way to get water into your dog!  Do be aware they might need to pee a bit more once you start to soak their kibble.

Baited Water

We offer free choice water in our home.  Each kitchen has a bowl out, and so does the dog room.  The dogs have plenty of options of fresh clean water to drink.  Bowls are washed and checked on a regular basis, and are always refilled on a routine schedule.   The dogs know that water is available to them at all times, and they also seem to enjoy drinking the fresh water as we put it out.

Before, and after runs we also give them baited water.  Everyone has their own methods for baitng water, and different dogs have their own preferences as well.  Vanilla ice cream, beef fat, hot dog water, or low sodium broth mix.   There are also ready made mixes you can purchase and mix with water to get your dog to drink more.  

If your dog pees dark yellow, they need more water!  If the pee is clear or light yellow, they have had enough!   Know your dog, and know his needs! 

 

Winter Time-  Snow Dipping

A dog who is dipping his head for snow to eat, is developing bad habits, and not getting enough water.  If you have a few fast moving dogs, and one starts to dip, it throws the other dog(s) off their gait, and messes up your rhythm of skiing as well.

Snow is also inefficient for a dog to melt and turn into water. 

So if your dog is dipping for water, stop.   Offer plenty of water and bring more next time!  

 

Summer Time- Drinking from a pond

In the warmer months when we run the dogs, we still bring plenty of baited water for the dogs.  The idea being, whether we are biking, hiking, mountain boarding or scootering them, we want them to drink the water we know to be safe.  Water of the wild may look alright to drink, but may harbour parasites.  I offer my dogs the water I know to be safe, and they don't get sick!     

Bikejoring

 

Bikejoring

Dré and Belle bikejoring in Alaska.

 

 

If you don't have snow or a scooter, and only have one dog, bikejoring may be a good option for you!  Bikejoring is when you bike with your dog. 

Use a bike that you feel safe on, and that is built for off road use.  I wouldn't suggest buying a brand new bike for bikejoring.  It's gonna take some abuse, and I hate to see a bike treated badly!  You should be able to put your feet down on the ground easily. 

If your dog is trained already to skijor, making the transition to biking easy.  Use the same commands, and very often the same trails.   Hard packed dirt, sand, and rocky trails are going to wear your dogs feet faster.  So be a friend, and keep an eye on those feet!  We love to bikejor in a forest near our home.  The trails are a mix of hard packed dirt, grass, and wood chips. 

If your dog is not trained for skijoring, don't start out bikejoring.   Falling off a bike is going to hurt, lots.   This is not a sport for dogs or people just starting out. 

 

Mechanical Aadvantage

When you bike with a dog, you have a real advantage, by changing gears and pedalling faster, you can really allow your dog to run much faster than you would at skijoring.  Which is great for those of us with speed demons.  With faster speeds comes increased risk for injury and heat stroke. So stick to your training goals and bring plenty of water.

Multiple Dogs

Sometimes I run multiple dogs.  I need to be in complete control of the dogs and the bike.  There are a lot more moving parts, and adding more than one dog multiplies the chance of something going wrong.  The most I have ever added to my bike was three, but all were well trained and I had a pretty good idea of what I was getting into.

But really, running more than one dog on a bike is fairly pointless.  Your bike provides plenty of mechanical advantage, you don't need to
 

Single Dog

Running a single dog bikejoring is a great way to work commands for a Gee-Haw leader.  It's also a great way to work on any issues or fine tune your dog before the upcoming skijor season.  Taking the time to work your dogs one on one builds your relationship and their confidence.  

Using a  bike allows you to travel at a faster speed, with less effort than jogging, or scootering.

 

Helmets

Wear a bike helmet.  Ensure it fits properly.  When you wiggle your head side to side, the helmet shouldn't shake and move.  

 Hills

Just as on skis, it is your job to maintain the proper speed on hills.  Uphill might require you to stand up and pedal.  Downhill will require you to keep an eye on the gang line and keep it taught, riding the brakes, and steering just to side and behind your dog.

Urban Areas

Don't run your dog where there is traffic or other dangers.  With your dog out on the gang line in front of you, they are going to be encountering things before you.  Cars seldom see bikes, and they almost never expect a dog pulling a bike.  So be safe, and go find a trail.

 

Gang line

Oftentimes bikejorers use bayonets plastic pipes to suspend the towline above the front wheel, and to prevent it from tangling between the wheel and forks. If you fail gangline management, and your line gets on the wheel, you are likely to flip off the bike.   So be careful.  

I do not use a bayonet while bikejoring.  My dogs are trained to keep the line tight, and away from danger.  There is a danger, that if you crash or hit someone, or your dogs, you will seriously injure them.  Having said that, if your bike, or body hits them, it's also going to cause damage. 

I attach the gangline on the upright under the handlebars.  This allows the line to move from side to side, and for the dogs to pull evenly on the front of the bike.   Do not hold the gangline in your hands, and do not attach it to the handlebars.

Brakes

Some of my bikes have disc brakes, but I prefer the cantilever style brakes for skijoring with my dogs.   It's a softer more gradual stop.  

If you need to stop your dogs, you will need to use your voice commands, just like in skijoring.  The brakes are there for control of the bike, not control of the dogs.  Applying the brakes too suddenly or strongly can injure the dogs shoulders, or tear their pads.   Always give your team plenty of warning when you plan to stop by using the brakes.

Want to slow the team down?  Try this tip, rather than holding down the brakes, which will most likely encourage them to dig in and pull harder, pump the brakes on and off to catch their attention.  Then give the command to slow down. 

 

Before you venture out, think of how fast you can dismount should you get into trouble on the trail.  

 

Check out this clips .. of the wrong way to dismount....

http://youtu.be/kEPLBadp990

 

 

 

Check It

Before you hit the trail:

1. Tell someone where you are going, and when you plan to return.
2.  Bait plenty of water for the dog.
3.  Check your dogs for signs of injury.
4.  Check your gear and lines. Everything should be in order.
5.  Check the weather forecast. Avoid running your dog if it's hot out.

Scooter!

Scootering With Your Best Friend

 Happy Scooter Birthday Movie

 

 

If you don't have snow, scootering is the safest way to go! 

Look for a scooter that is built for off road use.  You won't be scootering with your dogs on pavement.  So look for something that has knobby tires, and good
brakes! 

If your dog is trained already to skijor, making the transition to scootering is easy.  

Start without the dogs first, take the scooter around, practise shifting weight from one leg to another.  Try the brakes, learn how they act and react.  Take the scooter down a gradual hill, and over a variety of terrain.  Once you have your scooter legs, under you, then it's time to add a dog. 

Even if you run multiple dogs, start with one dog at a time on the scooter.  You need to be in complete control of the dog and the scooter.   Allow the dog some time to get used to the scooter as well, so keep the runs short to start.




Once you have a feel for what you and the dog are doing, you can add the rest of your team.

Helmets

I used to wear a bike helmet, but bike helmets are mostly meant to protect your forehead is a crash over the handlebars.  I have no switched to a skateboard helmet, which allows more coverage at the back of my head, and just as much coverage at the front as a bike helmet.    

 

Balance

Just like in skijoring, you and your dog are a team.   It's not your dogs job to haul your butt around the trails.  So on a scooter, you will need to be able to kick along to help the dog.   From the start, make sure you are comfortable kicking on either foot.  Wear a good pair of hikes, with grip to stay on the scooter, and enough grip to help kick on the terrain you are riding.  

Hills

Just as on skis, it is your job to maintain the proper speed on hills.  Uphill might require you to hop off the scooter, and push it up.  Downhill will require you to keep an eye on the gangline and keep it taught.  

Brakes

My current scooter has an awesome set of disc brakes.   I have loosened the brakes, so they will still catch and hold the scooter, but think of your brakes a back-up emergency device. 

If you need to stop your dogs, you will need to use your voice commands, just like in skijoring.  The brakes are there for control of the scooter, not control of the dogs.  Applying the brakes too suddenly or strongly can injure the dogs shoulders, or tear their pads.   Always give your team plenty of warning when you plan to stop by using the brakes.

Check It

Before you hit the trail:

1. Tell someone where you are going, and when you plan to return.
2.  Bait plenty of water for the dogs.
3.  Check your dogs for signs of injury.
4.  Check your gear, bolts, ropes, straps, lines. Everything should be in order.
5.  Check the weather forecast. Avoid running your dog if it's hot out.

 

More Scooter Reading

Warm Weather

 

 
 

The snow is gone, and now your dog and yourself are craving a good trail run.   No-Snow-Weather opens up more possibilities for you and your team to get out there and explore some new trails!

You don't need a groomed trail to run, scooter, or bike on with your dogs!  So there are more options!

Water, Water, Water

Soak your dog's kibble the night before, pack some baited water for the trail head, and also for rest stops along the way.  You can't bring too much water for your dogs, or for yourself.   I always water my dogs at home, at the trail head, on pit stops, and when we get back to the truck.  

New Dangers

If you have been running your dog in the winter, you have no doubt enjoyed the relative peace and tranquillity of the trail.  Many other trail users were off hibernating.  With the warmer temperatures, you will need to share the trail with more users, both two legged and four.  Expect to see more animals, loose dogs, hikers, horses, etc.  We even ran into a wedding party having their photos done once fall day!  

Expect the unexpected, and be in control of your dogs at all times.

Ticks

In some sections of the country, ticks are a growing concern.  Check your dogs when you get home, and a few hours after you get home as well. Fell for any small bumps or lumps that weren't there before.   Remove any ticks you find, and keep an eye on the area you removed the tick from for signs of infection. 

Heat Stroke

Dogs can and will overheat very quickly, leading to heat stroke, or even death. Signs of heat stroke can include:

Rapid panting

Dark red gums

Thick saliva

Tacky or dry gums

Lying down and unwilling (or unable) to get up

Collapse and/or loss of consciousness

Dizziness or disorientation

If you even THINK your dog has heat stroke, call your vet right away!  In the meantime:   move the dog to a shady or air conditioned area.   Then begin to cool the dog's body down, by pouring cool, not cold, water on the head and feet.   Offer your dog fresh water to drink.  Seek medical attention.

Don't run your dog on hot days. 

Paw Damage

Please, do not run your dog on pavement.  You are risking damage to the pads, from wearing them down, to ripping them off altogether.  Nails can become torn and cracked.  The dogs joints will also be at risk from pounding the pavement.  It is simply not worth it. 

In addition, pavement holds the heat.  So even if the air temperature seems cooler, it's much warmer on the pavement for your dog.  

The last danger with running a dog on pavement is cars and other traffic.  You do not know how your dog will react in every single situation, a poorly timed squirrel and a truck might mean spell disaster for your dog and yourself.  

Running on pavement leads to increased injuries and heat stress.

 

Before You Go

Before you run your dog on any trail, be sure to walk it first.  Scouting for possible obstacles on the trail like downed trees, logs, holes made by horse hooves, wet patches, or sections with lose rocks.  Fix parts of the trail which are dangerous, and make mental note of those sections you can't fix.  

Always wear a helmet.



 

Trails- Where to run?

Winter Trails

There are going to be 5 basic types of trails that you will run into out there.

 

Groomed Skate Ski Trails

By far the best trail to find if your skijoring technique involves skating behind the dog.   These trails are wide, and smooth.  Groomed to look like corduroy, your dogs paws will do just as much damage as your poles to the trail.  A great choice if you have permission to use them! 

In Winnipeg, various skijorers, led by our fearless leader Susie,  have worked together to get the permits required to run on groomed skate ski trails.  The trails are located in Bird's Hill Park.

With any shared trail always work to avoid tension tension.  Be polite, pick up after your dog, and go with the flow of traffic.  

 

Classic Ski Trails

Classic ski trails look like 2, or 4 lines running through the woods.  The lines, or grooves are for the skis to track in, so the skiers can get a good kick and glide.   These are unacceptable skijor trails, and should be avoided.  

The potential damage your dog will do to the trail is not only unfair to the people who want to ski it, but also to the groomers who have spent a lot of time getting it into good shape.

As a further note, your dog will likely run in the groomed tracks, which will throw off their gait, and make skijoring that much less fun.  

Snowmobile Trails

Another passable option!  Look for snowmobile trails along a river, or next to a wooded section.  The idea being, you need room to get off the trail QUICKLY should a snowmobile come down towards you.  We don't skijor on any official snowmobile trails, but rather use the tracks made by snow machines along rivers.   The tracks are often pushed down enough that there is no break through for the dogs, and some are wide enough to skate ski in.  

Service Roads

Another great option for skijoring is service roads through campgrounds, or near parks.   They often don't have any salt or sand down, so they are safe for your skis!   If the roads have been plowed lightly, they are good to go!   Just be careful of workers or machines operating in the area.

 

Walking Paths

Another excellent choice.   Some walking paths though parks and wooded areas, are plowed, but not salted or sanded.  Which make for a perfect spot to skijor!   A tip would be avoid the area during peak times, and attach a bell to your dog, or yourself.  To give people walking plenty of warning you are coming.   Expect to run into lose dogs on some of these walks, always remain friendly, and explain your dogs are working, this isn't play time. 

Let's get down to feet

Let's get down to feet

The purpose of this post is to help you learn to take care of your dog's feet.

If you don't take care of your dogs feet, the pads will crack and split. Causing your dog pain. If your dog enjoys skijoring, it is very likely they will work through any pain, and just keep going. It is the job of the skijorer to check and maintain the dog's feet.

Before we leave the house, and after every run, I check their feet, to make sure there are no cracks in the pads.

Start in the Fall

Starting in the fall, we build up the dogs foot pads, by long walks, on a variety of surfaces. I say walks, cause a dog can easily blow a pad on a run, on the wrong surface.

Assuming you have built up your dogs feet starting in the fall, ensure you are feeding zinc in your dog's diet, you can this by adding  fish oils or peanut butter to your dogs diet to help toughen up the pads.

 

Musher's Secret

Click here to purchase Musher's Secret

The Oxford Dogs use Musher's Secret. It softens the pads, prevents cracking, and also stops ice balls from building up around the toes. It is a wax product, and if the dog eats some, it's not going to do them any harm. Depending on how long you are out for, and the snow conditions, you might have to reapply the wax. We wax up right before we hit the trail, in the truck.

If the dogs have small cracks in their pads, they are off running until the cracks heal, and we treat the pads with Musher's Secret once a day until the pads are in good shape again.

 

Hair Care

When you are running your dog in the winter, ensure there is no hair growth between the pads. Keep the hair short with a pair of scissors, or clippers. If your dog is not happy with you touching his feet, or you are worried about doing the trimming, take them into a groomer. It's worth it, rather than cutting the webbing or slicing their foot by accident.

If there hair between the toes is allowed to grow too long, ice balls will form between the toes, spreading them apart. Which will not only distract your dog from pulling, but will make mushing unpleasant.

 

 

The Dangers of Pavement

 

Running a hard running dog, or a fresh dog on hard surfaces like pavement, sidewalks, roads, even sand after a rain will lead to wearing od the dogs pads faster than running on softer surfaces, like dirt pack trails, or a good base of snow.   

If you choose to run your dog on such surfaces, you are running the risk of wearing right through their pads.  Look for shiny spots on the pads, or spots that look like drops of moisture.   This means you have blown through all the layers of skin, and are down to about one layer left.   Stop now!   If you have been running your dog on pavemenet, you may also see small red, or black holes in the pad.  These are holes from where the pad has been worn or ripped off by the hard surface.   

Don't run your dog on pavement. 

Take care of your dog's feet, and you will both have a great season!

Hills

Hills, will kill ya!

One thing we always train our dogs to do well, are hills. Living out here in the flat part of Canada, hills are a  bit hard to find. But we look for any elevation during our runs and use them.   Everything is training.

Here is a race that we were in, To the Loppet!  .  Many people in the race struggled with the hills.  Stopping to herringbone up, and their dogs would look over their shoulders as if to ask "What's going on bud?  KEEP UP!"  But not our dogs...

Our dogs eat hills for breakfast. 

It's simple enough, and this was a tip taught to me by a mushing mentor.  During your training walks or regular runs, anytime you see a hill, take full advantage of it.  

 RUN AT IT!  FAST! HARD! 

Teach your dogs that hills are fun, and they should run at them. When you run at them, and get to the top, offer lots of praise, and then keep moving.  You don't want to teach them to run up a hill, and stop.  Once your dogs are pulling when they see a hill, offer a command for the behaviour as well. We use "HILL".  Which means, to the Oxford Dogs," RUN!  There's a party up there!"

You will be thanking me later when you are coming back after a long run, winded, and parked your truck on a hill.  When the dogs see the hill, and get their second wind, your tired butt will be dragged right up after them.