20 November 2015

Photo Contest!

Photo Contest!

Oxford Dogs is having a photo contest, which really isn't a contest celebrating photographic skill, it's more of  a contest to celebrate working dogs!  We will send the winner a gift certificate for $25, good for anything in our web store!

The winner will be randomly drawn on December 6th.  So let's see what you got!  Post a photo of your dogs pulling in harness on our Oxford Dogs Facebook page.  Of course you can enter more than one photo, but they better be good! Contest is open to residents of Canada only.  No nudity, unless you were mushing in the warmer months.  

Show us what you got!

16 November 2015

Line Out

Line Out.  It’s kind of a big deal. Often times people are so focused on GOING, flying off down the trail, in our rush to get there, we forget how to get there.  Doesn’t make sense does it?  Neither does skipping the “Line Out” command with your dog.

A properly trained “Line Out” means your dog, in harness, will walk to the end of the gangline and wait.  What is your dog waiting for?   The command to “Hike” to move forward.   You might need to be waiting your turn at the start line of race, you might be needing to turn your GoPro on, you might just be fiddling with your gloves and skis.  Either way, you can certainly see the advantage of a dog who is going to walk out to the end of the line, and wait till you are ready to start pulling! 
Furthermore, a good solid “Line Out” means you have a good chance to check that there are no tangled lines, avoiding injury for both you and your dog!  

How do I teach it? 

Ask a mushing question, get 20 different answers. 
Here is what works for the majority of our students.   We begin by ensuring the dog can only be successful.   A solid skijoring dog is a confident dog.  A confident dog is one who has been set up for success. 
This is going to be a skijoring command, so go ahead and suit up.  Put your belt on, and harness your dog. Beginning in a hallway, or another narrow corridor, walk out the length of your gangline, and include room for your dog’s body as well.  If the total length of your dog’s gangline to their nose is 10 feet, place a target at ten feet, and walk back to the start.  A suitable target might be a small plastic lid. 
Place your dog on the starting line in a “Sit Stay”.   Walk back to the target and place a really juicy reward on it.    Now walk back to your dog, who is hopefully drooling and looking at the treat.    Avoid making eye contact with your dog, and release them from the “Sit Stay”.  Your dog will bound off to the treat, being rewarded!   Repeat this a few times, until your dog gets the idea of running ahead to the end of the line to get the treat.  When your dog is getting the treat, don’t be shy, PRAISE PRAISE!  Eventually you will be replacing the treat with verbal praise. 

Beautiful "Line Out"!  Good Dogs! 

Once your dog is doing this consistently, it’s time to take it up a notch.    Place the target slightly further ahead this time.   Just far enough ahead that your dog has to push against the harness to reach it.    A solid “Line Out” is going to be having the dog put some pressure on the harness. Not enough to pull you, just enough to keep the line tight.  When your dog is doing this well, it’s time to add the command.  Associating the behaviour with the command.  
Burger "Line Out"  Notice he leans into the harness, but is not pulling.

An important note, avoid sending your dog out to the target, and then calling him back.  In the dog’s mind, this might be part of the training, and you certainly don’t want a dog who is going to “Line Out” then come bouncing back to you.  Like some crazy Yo-yo!   After you have asked your dog to “Line Out”, go and collect him, gather up the gangline, and walk him back.   Only repeat this a few times, leave your dog wanting more.   Don’t be a bore! 

Extensions of this activity, are going to see you sending your dog to the target, waiting for a few seconds, and then moving forward.  If your dog can wait patiently at the end of the line while you finish your coffee, bonus points to you! 

There are as many ways of training "Line Out" as there are mushers and dogs.  Everyone has something that works for them.   The end result should always be the same.  You have a dog who is at the end of the line, and waits for your command to tell them to go.  Don’t forget what our end game is here.    Walk to the end of the line. Go forward.   Soon enough your dog will be moving forward down the trail, and that is reward!  

12 November 2015

Guest Post: Review: Howling Dog Alaska Second Skin Harness by Tamara MacLaren

Howling Dog Alaska Second Skin Harness

Tamara MacLaren is an urban Musher who lives in British Columbia.  Check out her Facebook page BC URBAN MUSHING.   We are happy to welcome Tamara back to Skijor Oxford Dogs Blog as a guest.  We sent Tamara and her dogs a Second Skin harness by Howling Dog Alaska to review! Tamara was not paid for her comments, and her views are solely her own.   Tamara did receive one free Second Skin harness from Oxford Dogs to review.

First, a few comments on half verses full length harnesses:

There are a few general advantages to a half or urban mushing style harness.

The first is that they are generally adjustable around the girth, and many styles are also adjustable around the neck. Measuring and ordering a non-adjustable harness such as an x-back harness is difficult. There is no standardization, and exactly where on the dog to measure for the specific harness changes from manufacturer to manufacturer. Additionally, as you get some miles on your dog, your dog gains muscle and may loose weight, changing the fit of the harness. With an adjustable harness, it is simple to expand or tighten a girth or collar, but with a fixed size harness, you need to get a different size.

Secondly, because they have a girth, the dog can't back out of the harness, a common issue with dogs new to the sport. Some do it accidentally, as they dart to the side to sniff, chase, or greet and when they are blocked going forward, reverse causing the harness to come over their head. Some have discovered this accidentally, but then continue to do it any time they want to go in a different direction than you do, like chasing a squirrel up a tree. Nobody wants their dog to suddenly be off-leash and potentially in danger.

Third, because the connection to the harness is just behind the shoulders, the handler retains more control of the dog, a very important and needed feature when bringing new dogs into the sport. Most dogs will at first behave the same way they do on leash. Some want to walk beside you, some want to dart in all directions, and most want to do a walk-and-sniff walk.  With a half-harness it is much easier to block unwanted behaviours, particularly those to the side, which is almost always where the dog is wanting to go.

Fourth, half-harnesses can be used for other things besides mushing. Restrained recalls, fly-ball, agility, etc, so for someone who doesn't want a different set of gear for every activity they do with their dog, the half-harness can be a very good option.

I like and use x-back style harnesses on my dogs, but when only running 1-2 dogs or when starting a new dog, I think a half-harness may be the way to go for many.

So, which half-harness should you get? I've used the Urban Trail harnesses from Alpine Outfitters and Canadog, and the Second Skin Harness made by Howling Dog Alaska and sold by Oxford Dogs.
The harnesses from Alpine and Canadog are very similar with padded nylon straps. The one from Alpine is adjustable at the neck and the girth which I thought would be the best option, but I found that as my dogs learned to pull, the neck buckle would slip and so every time out, I had to re-tighten that strap.

The Second Skin harness sold by Oxford Dogs is completely different. It is primarily made from a breathable waffle-weave soft padded fabric with bright coloured trim, reflective strips, and an adjustable girth. This style spreads the pulling load more evenly across the dog’s shoulders to minimize any pressure points from pulling. The neck hole is not adjustable but is soft and flexible. To help with heat dissipation and improve shoulder movement, the design includes an open area across the shoulders.

I used this harness on 4 dogs, a 55 lb German Shepherd, two 43-47 lb pointer crosses, and an Alaskan Malamute puppy, also about 55 lbs.  These dogs have very different builds and coats, yet the Second Skin fit perfectly on each!

I ran two of the dogs together with my bike and the harness did pull minimally to one side, but still worked very well. One of the things I noticed using the half harnesses on each dog is that they were less likely to get tangled (running very new dogs). Running a single dog from the bike or canicross style on foot was perfect and gave that extra level of control typical of most half-harnesses. I walked the Malamute puppy on the harness and she was able to pull to her heart's content, but without me worrying about pressure points with a puppy.

For a final test out, I took one of the pointers to a fly-ball practice and used this harness with her. Practice includes a stranger holding the dog by the harness while I go to the other end of the run and call the dog. The dog then runs to me, jumping several low jumps along the way. What I especially liked with this harness for this activity is that I could give the tug loop to the holding person and she could use it to hold the dog back without actually touching the dog, an important feature for dogs who are sensitive. When she released the dog, due to the loop's location, there was no risk to the dog tripping on it or getting it caught on something, and the harness is cut perfectly not to interfere with shoulder movement, so the dog ran freely clearing the jumps. If there had been an issue and the dog needed to be caught, the harness could easily be grabbed as the dog zipped by.

There would be no need to switch from this style of harness unless the tug line would be going from the dog to some connection point close to the back height of the dog or lower.  For lower connection points, the tug line would bump the dogs back, hind end, or cut to the side and potentially rub a hip.

My overall impression of this harness is excellent and I would recommend it to anyone doing multiple sports, training young teams, wanting to minimize pressure points, or looking for a flexible fit. 

11 November 2015

Product Review – Kurgo Pinnacle Harness

Product Review – Kurgo Pinnacle Harness

 AndrĂ© and Burger, and the Oxford Dogs were not paid for this review.  We did receive one free harness from Kurgo to test.  

Good Day All! Even though you may have seen plenty of me over the years this is my first post on the blog. I am the other human member of the Oxford Dogs team and I enjoy participating in all kinds of human-canine sports with my fur family. Received I got a chance to test out Kurgo’s Pinnacle Harness with my youngest dog Burger.

In any kind of pulling sport a good solid harness is your most important piece of gear, I have a few harnesses for Burger that I absolutely love so I was excited to put the Pinnacle Harness to the test.
The product itself

Before even trying the harness on Burger I took a few minutes to examine it. The harness appears to be made of very durable material and has solid hardware. This is very important to me as Burger is a strong pull dog that has ripped or broken more than his fair share of gear. The chest plate is fairly broad which should support solid pulling form the chest, and there is a handy back handle to suitcase the dog easily.

The fit

Overall the harness is extremely adjustable. Burger has quite a deep chest and I had no problem fitting him. Because of the design, the harness fits easily over the dog’s head then clasps on both sides, so there is no awkward leg twisting needed. The one thing that I found odd was the clasps, they are metal and fit into each other. At first I thought I would have difficulty with them, but they turned out to be very easy to work with. The only concern I have with these is that they may be more difficult to handle during the winter, as the metal would get cold and there is no way you can handle them with gloves on.

Putting it to the test

The harness is advertised for hiking, running and walking, so in order to give it a good test I used it for all three on separate occasions. For every one of these activities the harness performed well. Because of its adjustability and broad chest plate Burger was able to pull solidly from his chest. I also found the length of the harness to be quite good and the belly strap didn’t rub at all in Burgers armpits, as I have observed in some other harnesses.

Burger can get a tad bit excited when he comes across wildlife, deer and squirrels are some of his favorite things, so I found the handle especially helpful to rein him in when he got overly excited with his surroundings.

Unfortunately I wasn’t able to get him to walk nicely on a leash while in the harness, but to be honest I have trouble getting that behaviour out of him on the best of days, so it’s clear that the harness is not to blame.

Overall impression

Overall I found Kurgo’s Pinnacle Harness to be a good fitting harness that I would recommend to anyone, with a gentle dog, that likes to hike with their dog or cani-cross.

The harness also has some additional features such as the front attachment which can be used to turn it into a no-pull harness, which I chose not to test for fear of confusing Burger as I always encourage him to pull in harness. The harness is also machine washable which could come in handy if you’re like me and like to go out in all weather conditions and are not afraid to get a little dirty.

Unfortunately, after a few months of use, Burger was able to rip this harness apart.  It started with a few small rips in the fabric, and then most of the top tore off.  Burger is a solid dog, and this is not the first harness he has destroyed.    Thankfully, the re-enforced stitching along the back of the harness held in place, we were still able to hike back to the car.   This harness would likely be fine on a dog who is not a constant puller, but it was not able to withstand Burger’s strength. 

Happy tails!

André and Burger

19 October 2015

Kurgo Baxter Backpack Review

Kurgo Baxter Backpack Review -

Guest Post by the Sophomore Skijorer

Oxford Dogs was not paid for this review.   The Sophomore Skijorer did receive one free pack to review. 

Hey there! You may remember me from previous guest posts on the OxfordDogs' blog- “Tales from the Sophomore Skijorer”. Well we are coming up on our fourth mushing season, so I am not sure whether that title is still appropriate… but I have yet to come up with a better name!

Anyway, we added a new pup to our pack last December. Casey is a neat little dude who loves to adventure! Guess you could say he fits right in! We were super excited when the Oxford Dogs asked us to do a product review for the Kurgo Baxter Dog Backpack.

First Impressions

Everyone knows first impressions are important! Well, this is one good looking pack!I picked out the “Coastal Blue” color and totally loved it. Plus, it looks really great against Casey’s black fur. The size was easy to choose – there are only two options (regular Baxter and Big Baxter) which shows how adjustable this pack is.  Casey is 35 lbs- I was a bit worried the regular Baxter would still be too big for him but we had no issues.

The Fit

This pack is super easy to fit and comes with a good little card with directions. Thereare two belly straps that are easily adjustable. The strap closest to the dogs front legsalso connects into a little breast plate that makes up part of the neck strap as well. This made it really simple to fit the pack properly around the neck line. The saddle bags have their own separate straps to adjust their height which is  a nice feature.

The Features

A few of my favorite things about this pack- the handle on the back! It is sturdy and padded which makes hanging on to your dog for a quick photo a breeze. There is a sturdy D ring at the back of the pack to attach your leash to and while the saddle bags look small in size, they can sure hold a lot of stuff! Each bag has two zippered compartments- one big one and one small one.  Great for treats, poop bags, collapsible bowls… and much more!

The FUN!

The first time we tested this pack out, was on a nice 6 km hike. It was Casey’s first time with a backpack on and he adjusted in no time. Our dogs are trained to pull in harness, and I find this transfers over to backpacks too. I have had experience with straps on another pack loosening as time goes on under the strain of a strong pulling dog.  Not this pack! It was solid! The straps didn’t move, and everything stayed in place, despite Casey's pulling.

The zippers have nice toggles on them which make opening the compartments super easy, even with gloves on.

The best part is, adding a small amount of weight in a pack not only tires the dogs out physically, but mentally as well.

The Bottom Line

In my opinion, this is a great pack! Worth the investment if you are active with your dogs. Can’t wait to get one for our other dog Ember!

12 August 2015

Guest Post: Dog Sports Girl: Review Ruffwear Knot-a-Collar

Have you met our newest reviewer?  Sarah is from Winnipeg, Mb.  She lives with her dog Davidson, and they compete in many forms of dog sports.   Sarah and Davidson have performed with the SuperDogs and Wild Dogs of Winnipeg!  Welcome!

Product Review: Ruffwear Knot-a-Collar

Recently I tested the Ruffwear Knot-A-Collar. Davidson has been wearing the collar for the past week and I wanted to share some thoughts so you can make the best decision in choosing a collar that will work best for you and your dogs!

First things first, I LOVE this collar; it’s great for wearing around the house for everyday wear, with the slim 7mm reflective rope design it wont irritate the skin or mess up the fur like a regular thick buckle collar. The separate ID tag holder on the front of the collar is quiet and out of the way so it’s never jingling with your leash on walks.

The collar is deigned to adjust using the 2 slip knots located on either side of the collar. With the medium fitting 14-20 inch neck size and the large fitting 20-26 inch the collar is designed to fit your medium to larger size breeds. Ruffwear’s aluminum V-Ring attachment point for your leash is strong and sturdy just like you will find on many of their other products and collars. The belay plate of the collar fits right in the center of the neck and provides a nice fit so the collar stays in place and not irritating the skin.


Is it a good "fit"?

Now this collar is great, but there are some things that don’t make it a good fit for everyone, or every situation.   For the dog who likes to pull or isn’t the most well-mannered furry monster of the pack, this collar might not work out. Even though the thin rope design of the collar is great for wearing around the house and holding your everyday ID tags, it isn’t so great on a dog that likes to push their limits pulling on a leash. Also, unless you have the collar snug so it isn’t coming off any time soon, it’s pretty easy to back out of to go chase the neighborhood rabbits.

 The verdict

In the end I would classify it more as a beautiful ID collar. It’s for the people who prefer their dogs to be “naked” but with the safety of a phone number or for something to hold when your dinner arrives at the door!
Sarah Davidson is the Dog Sports Girl. You can catch her and Davidson at the WildDogs shows.  Look for more of Sarah's review right here! Neither Sarah nor Oxford Dogs was compensated for this review by Ruffwear.

9 August 2015


We have had lots of fun with you over the years!    What started as a hobby, running dogs on my own, turned into teaching others.  From there it turned into a blog, and then we started to bring gear in for people.  We still are passionate about getting people out with their dogs.  Word is getting out!  People are taking to skijoring, canicross and running with their dogs in increasing larger numbers!  We love it!   To best support new people to the sport, we have put our gear for sale all on one place.   You can now find our best selling, high quality gear here... on our website.  

5 March 2015

Snow Motion: Rookie of the Year 2015: Carla

Meet Carla, the Snow Motion Rookie of the year.   Snow Motion is a winter dog sports club in Winnipeg, Mb.   We were happy to sponsor the Rookie of the Year award for their local race, the Snow Motion Classic.  
Tell us about your dog, Moose.
Moose is a rescue from Manitoba Mutts.  He was found wandering in a ditch outside of Miami, Manitoba when he was 3 months old.  We have no idea if he has siblings or what his breed is although it's safe to say he's quite the mix.  Moose is a pretty amazing dog.  He's calm, playful, likes to cuddle and is eager to please.  He gets along with almost any other dog but is content to explore on his own too.  But what makes him really wonderful for this sport is that he loves to chase and he doesn't mind pulling.  The trick now is to get him to pull without a chase.
How did you first get started in the sport?
I worked with an expert in the sport, Lorne Volk, when I was doing my practicum for teaching.  He would show the students pictures and videos.  I remember his eyes lit up when I said that I'd adopted a dog.  Everything fit into place after that.    
What dog powered sports have you been involved with?
Skijoring is my first "dog-powered" sport although we take Moose with us everywhere including cycling, hiking, back-country camping and canoeing.  
How did you know you were hooked on the sport?
I was hooked on the sport because Moose was.  It was a challenge at first.  I didn't know how to ski and Moose didn't know how to pull.  We had some pretty ridiculous crashes and entanglements.  I remember getting so excited when we first started to click as a team.  Now Moose loves skijoring and we're only getting better and better at it.
What other kinds of training have you done with your dogs?

Early on we knew that training was important with Moose especially since he is such a large dog.  We took him to obedience training when he was just a puppy and try to be very consistent with our behaviour expectations at home. 

Matt (my fiancee) is helping with training year-round.  Every time we turn left, even when walking, we say "Haw" and every time we turn right we say "Gee".  This year, Moose has started to listen and respond to those calls! 

What is your favorite piece of gear?

I started to sport using a short old pair of classic skis.  I wanted to make sure that this was a sport that we would both enjoy before buying expensive equipment.  I recently took the plunge and bought real skate ski equipment.  I'm having a good time with my new skis right now.

What is the best advice you have ever been given for mushing?
Get to know your dog.  If you can predict what your dog is going to do, then you can be proactive in either correcting or encouraging it.  Often it's when your dog surprises you that you end up biting the snow.    
Why do you run your dog?
It's so important to exercise your dog.  If we weren't skijoring, we'd be going to the dog park or for a hike or cycle.  But with skijoring, we both get great exercise and we get to take advantage of the Winnipeg winter.   It also gives us a chance to really work together as a team.  I feel a lot closer to my dog when we skijor because we are relying on each other to make it work.  Moose loves it and so do I.

2 March 2015

Guest Post: Tug-N-Tow Review: By Tamara MacLaren

Tamara MacLaren stops by to review the Tug-N-Tow for us.  Tamara has been involved in working with dogs and horses for more than 30 years and currently lives and runs dogs in and around the Fraser Valley of British Columbia.  She also enjoys traveling, hiking, and backpacking with the dogs, running marathons, and teaching running clinics when she isn't researching and writing.  Watch for her book on Urban Mushing in the near future.   Tamara, nor the Oxford Dogs have been compensated for this review.   

Tug-N-Tow Review

         by Tamara MacLaren

Just behind me and to my left I heard Diana yell a hard “NO” and the sound of her scooter skidding to an immediate halt.  I called my own “Whoa” and hit the breaks to see what had happened.  Willa, my German Shepherd, and Takoa, my Alaskan Malamute, stopped immediately, and I looked back.
Diana's two dogs, a blonde athletic male lab and a black equally fit female lab mix were doubled back facing Diana and appeared to have been trying to head off the dyke.  Their lines were wound around the front wheel axle so tightly that neither dog could move.  I lay my scooter down, and went back to see if I could help. 
Happily, Diana's dogs were calm, so we unhooked their harnesses and I held them while she attempted to extricate the line from the wheel.  Finally, with a wrench, the line came free, but in two pieces!  "
We weren't too far from the parking area, but scooters are not made to easily be person powered. I dug around in my bag, pulled out a leash, and knotted it into Diana's line to replace the damaged piece. We hooked up, and gently trotted back the remaining way to the parking area.

This kind of thing was a regular occurrence for me when I started dryland mushing with my dogs.  My Malamute would pull for a second to get moving, but then slack off.  In the moment between when he slacked off and when I used the breaks to take the slack back out of the line, the line would get into my wheel, under one of my break handles, etc. 

Initially, I bought a “Scooter Noodle” from Alpine Outfitters to solve the problem.  The Scooter Noodle is basically a pool noodle about 1.5 feet long that you run your line through before attaching it to your scooter or bike.  There is a line at the dog end of the noodle that you attach to your handlebars, forming a triangle to hold the line up and away from your tire if the line goes slack. 
This worked reasonably as long as the dog was in front, but as is often the case with dogs who are new to the sport, my dogs would often stop to the side or drop to check on me, bringing the slack line to the side.  Then the dog would spring ahead and the line and noodle would hook my breaks, flipping my handlebars to one side and me into the gravel, especially when on my bike where the handlebars are lower.  Not fun!

I spent time researching how to train my dogs out of this dangerous behavior and looking for how to prevent the intermittent slack from causing accidents and injuries to me.  I came across the Tug-N-Tow (http://www.tugntowbikeleash.com/).  The Tug-N-Tow works the same as a retractable leash attached to your bike or scooter.  Retractable leashes have been heavily denounced in recent years for using to walk dogs because it encourages the dogs to pull.  I thought, “Hmm – I want my dogs to pull”.

The Tug-N-Tow is a normal mushing line that attaches inside a housing that is mounted on your bike or scooter (or any vehicle you want to attach it to).  The housing uses an industrial strength spring to wind excess line around a spool inside the housing, keeping the slack out of the line.  When fully extended, the line is about 7 feet, the same as a normal line, but 5 feet of that is retractable, meaning that if the dog didn't pull at all, there would be enough line for the dog to be at the bike or scooter, possibly even getting a bump from the tire, but still not enough slack for the line to get into the wheel.  This sounded good. 

I asked if other people who had bought it where happy with it and the resounding response was that not only were they happy with it, but everyone in their mushing club had switched to using them – a strong recommendation.  I was concerned that perhaps the Tug-N-Tows would break under hard use but I couldn't find anyone who's Tug-N-Tow had broken. 
In looking at the Tug-N-Tow web site, there was instructions on how to replace the lines and even the retraction spring as well as information on extensive testing they do to ensure that the Tug-N-Tow stands up to the rigors of dryland mushing and then some!

I ordered a Tug-N-Tow from the web site and was shocked when it arrived only a few days later.  I had mine delivered to a US mailing address since I live very close to the US border, so I don't know how much extra time the border crossing would add if having it shipped to Canada.

I grabbed an adjustable wrench and quickly installed the Tug-N-Tow on my scooter, harnessed the Malamute, and off we went to give it a try.

The effect was immediate and entertaining.  As before, the Malamute gave a few steps of pulling to get us moving, then attempted to slow down to relieve the tension on the line.  The line retracted and the line stayed tight.  He stopped and the line stayed tight. 
My husband was on his bike ahead, so the Malamute had a great deal of motivation to move forward.  So he moved out again, attempting again to slow after the first few steps to relieve the line tension.  Since this strategy no longer worked and my husband was getting away, he stopped trying to relieve the tension and just kept going, picking up speed to catch up. 
It was like a miracle and I was forever in love with my Tug-N-Tow!

My only complaint and it is a minor one, is the bungee loop arrangement.  Their is a bungee loop between the main recoiling line and the tugs that go to the dog harnesses.  Without tension on the line, the loop has a tendency to open, and the first time I took out my newly installed Tug-N-Tow on my bike, the Malamute was goofing around, coming beside me for a moment.  I use heavy-tread mountain bike tires on my bike, and as the bungee sagged, it caught on the tire tread, immediately halting my bike, and flipping me off onto my knees.  I swapped the bungee and tug section of the line out for an inline bungee tug and haven't had the problem since.  Putting a knot in the bungee loop to hold it closed would accomplish the same thing.

If you are running multiple dogs, the slack line becomes less of a problem and at least one of them is always pulling, but when you only run one or two dogs, the Tug-N-Tow is the best solution I have found, both as a training tool, and for fundamental safety while out running the dogs.  I highly recommend it.

Thanks Tamara!  
Click here for my review on the Tug-N-Tow.  
Have you used the Tug-N-Tow? 
Let us know on the comment section what you think! 

17 February 2015

Interlake Challenge

Diamond Disc Dogs, Crazy Jumpers Dog School and Oxford Dogs are proud to present the Interlake Challenge. March 21st, 2015

  It's a tour of two awesome private skijoring/kick sledding trails in the Interlake Region on Manitoba. Our first trail at Crazy Jumpers Dog School & Boarding, is located just outside of Gimli. (10:30 am) After a run on the trails, enjoy your picnic lunch in the heated training facility.

 Due to the number of dogs at the event, we ask that dogs please stay in your vehicle during while you are eating.

 From there we load up and drive down the road to the Diamond Disc Dog's farm, located in Inwood Manitoba. (1:00 pm) Space is limited to 15 teams.

 The hosts have generously donated access to the trails for the day. We will be announcing a convoy closer to the date for those traveling from Winnipeg (8:45 am). Bring your friend. Bring your dogs. Bring a camera and a smile!

 RSVP to kevin_c_roberts@yahoo.com to reserve your spot. There is no cost.  This is not a race.  Just a fun event!  

Snow Motion Classic Feb 15, 2015

These photos are from a local clubs race, the Snow Motion Classic, held at Birds Hill Park, near Winnipeg.   Trails were in great condition, thanks to the brutal cold!      A layer of new snow made the trails really nice to ski and glide on.    If your image is here, please feel free to Right Click and steal it!     I have no idea why some of the photos look so odd, I will play around with them later and see what I can do.  For now, when you click on the photos, you can scroll through them that way. 

Well, that was fun!  Looking for some more skijoring action?   Check out the Interlake Challenge